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敦煌

一野知秋 ??

<p style="font-family: -webkit-standard; white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;古道,西風(fēng),斜陽,疾車。</h3><p style="font-family: -webkit-standard; white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 心,隨著160碼的車輪跳動(dòng),念念地向你奔去。</h3><p style="font-family: -webkit-standard; white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 然,越接近,越惶恐。</h3><p style="font-family: -webkit-standard; white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 因,敦者,大也;煌者,盛也。</h3> <p style="font-family: -webkit-standard; white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 歲月如大漠流沙般,走得不著痕跡,不覺已是經(jīng)年。驀然回首,離開敦煌已十余載,當(dāng)初懵懂地走馬觀花的勾勒,記憶里更多的是敬仰與神秘。</h3><p style="font-family: -webkit-standard; white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 這些年,朋友們很多人歸來又去,我總不敢。于我而言,敦煌太深了,幾乎所有古代中國(guó)西域的歷史都在敦煌留下了或深或淺的痕跡。在龐大的敦煌面前,我是淺薄和羞怯的……。</h3> <p style="font-family: -webkit-standard; white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 七月流火,在機(jī)緣際會(huì)與巧合中,再次踏上絲路。車在荒涼中疾馳,看著西域的天空,黃昏與黃沙迷蒙了雙眼,滾燙的空氣在戈壁荒漠上折射著遠(yuǎn)方模糊的綠洲,敦煌如海市蜃樓般在心中呈現(xiàn),不由一陣顫抖,在浩雜的文明和文化、藝術(shù)和學(xué)術(shù)面前,我們無疑一粒微塵,敦煌會(huì)不會(huì)拒絕我這樣一個(gè)淺薄的游覽者?</h3><p style="font-family: -webkit-standard; white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 七色晚霞里,敦煌就那么靜靜地在我面前,如一位凌空欲飛的仙女,如一株空谷里的絕世幽蘭。千百年前,你矗立于此,守望歲月,見證輝煌。如今,你依舊,風(fēng)華絕代,令世人魂?duì)繅?mèng)縈。</h3> <p style="font-family: -webkit-standard; white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 盛夏的莫高窟在流火與風(fēng)沙中一如千年前的沉靜從容,于崖壁頂厚厚覆蓋著一望無際的沙丘。斷崖峭壁上,開山鑿石,長(zhǎng)長(zhǎng)的洞窟,如蜂房鴿舍,層次井然、高低錯(cuò)落、鱗次櫛比。貼倚山體的檐角飛翹九層閣樓,正中巖壁。千佛洞里,釋迦牟尼傳記、八部天龍護(hù)法、九色鹿救人、薩錘那飼虎......,濃縮了多少智慧,也塑出了朝朝代代的沉浮。在莫高,在未曾失落的繁華里,飛天一夢(mèng)就是千年。</h3><p style="font-family: -webkit-standard; white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 此刻,依稀傳來梵音。陡然地,卸下了案牘勞形,絲竹亂耳的塵世布袋,在敦煌構(gòu)筑的石窟,我凝望且歌且舞的莫高眾神,凝望那楚楚飛天的形象;體會(huì)自由的天性,體會(huì)靈魂的飛翔,在一片升騰的火焰中,洗凈塵世中的雜念和喧囂。</h3> <p style="font-family: -webkit-standard; white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 月牙泉,鳴沙山,那么美的名字。日暮將盡,終登頂鳴沙山,氣喘、熱汗、燙沙無情侵蝕。然,當(dāng)“長(zhǎng)河落日?qǐng)A”呈現(xiàn),當(dāng)古人的豪情激蕩過胸懷時(shí),不由渾身酣暢;呆呆地坐在沙上,看如血?dú)堦枮⒃诮鹕纳衬侠鲩L(zhǎng)長(zhǎng)的剪影,把鳴沙山涂抹得一派蒼茫。</h3><p style="font-family: -webkit-standard; white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">&nbsp; &nbsp;</h3> <h3>  晚風(fēng)吹拂,月牙泉內(nèi),水汽上升,星斗從天邊涌現(xiàn),和田玉一般,匯聚天宇,照耀敦煌。終于,黑夜如莫高眾神,集體飛臨,以寬大的長(zhǎng)袖和慈祥的內(nèi)心,將敦煌再一次帶入人間的夜晚,寧?kù)o悠遠(yuǎn),又,宏大深沉......。</h3> <p style="font-family: -webkit-standard; white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 靜靜的,我仿佛聽到了歷史里寂寞旅人的駝鈴聲,鈴聲中梵音繚繞,傳頌著那些歷史中光彩照人的名字和那些驚心動(dòng)魄或者如泣如訴的傳說,重復(fù)著《又見敦煌》里的話語:轉(zhuǎn)身凝望,回眸已是千年……。</h3> <p style="font-family: -webkit-standard; white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 多年后,應(yīng)當(dāng)記得,</h3><p style="font-family: -webkit-standard; white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 那年盛夏,奔向那敦煌的駝鈴......。</h3><p style="font-family: -webkit-standard; white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 看你在漫漫的黃沙中,舞出飛天的壁畫;</h3><p style="font-family: -webkit-standard; white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 看你在莫高的夕陽里,吟誦輪回的梵音;</h3><p style="font-family: -webkit-standard; white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 看你在殘破的石窟邊,拾起千年前的經(jīng)卷......。</h3><p style="font-family: -webkit-standard; white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br></h3><p style="font-family: -webkit-standard; white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 多年后,仍當(dāng)記得,</h3><p style="font-family: -webkit-standard; white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 日落,誰遙望大漠孤煙,</h3><p style="font-family: -webkit-standard; white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 月下,誰依偎沙山牙泉,</h3><p style="font-family: -webkit-standard; white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 夜里,誰追尋塵世來路。</h3> <p style="font-family: -webkit-standard; white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;或許,輪回中,</h3><p style="font-family: -webkit-standard; white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;那生,她描情描殤描壁畫,</h3><p style="font-family: -webkit-standard; white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;那世,我夢(mèng)風(fēng)夢(mèng)沙夢(mèng)繁華......。</h3>