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記憶5276米-四姑娘山二峰攀登記(上)

曉七

<font color="#000000" face="宋體" size="3"> </font><p style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;"><font color="#000000"><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"> 從</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;"><font face="Calibri">2020</font></span><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">年</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;"><font face="Calibri">5</font></span><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">月徒步貢嘎山以來,一直就沒有出去過,</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;"><font face="Calibri">2021</font></span><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">春節(jié)因?yàn)榉婪兑咔榈脑蛞矝]有出門。到了五一節(jié),終于有阿松再次組隊(duì)到四姑娘山二峰登山,我很快就報(bào)了名。估計(jì)很多人也憋了一年了,報(bào)名的人很快就有三十來個(gè)了。分為兩批,第一批二十多人于</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;"><font face="Calibri">5</font></span><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">月</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;"><font face="Calibri">3</font></span><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">日登山,第二批七人在四姑娘山鎮(zhèn)多休整一天,于</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;"><font face="Calibri">5</font></span><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">月</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;"><font face="Calibri">4</font></span><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">日登山。</span></font></p><p style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;"><font color="#000000"><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"> 四姑娘山位于四川省阿壩藏族自治州小金縣和汶川縣交界處,是橫斷山脈邛崍山脈最高峰,幺妹峰峰海拔6250米,號稱蜀山之后,緊連幺妹峰的其他三座山峰為三峰、二峰、大峰,海拔分別為:5355米;5276米;5025米,總程為四姑娘山。二峰海拔5276米,由日隆鎮(zhèn)海子溝口至二峰峰頂,全程大至為二十多公里山路,上升絕對高度為2100米以上,沿途水源補(bǔ)給充足,整條路線沒有很險(xiǎn)要的地段。二峰與其它大部分雪山比較其雪線較短,海拔相對較低,體能要求僅標(biāo)準(zhǔn)級(前提是身體狀況正常,無高原反應(yīng)),對冰雪技術(shù)的要求也不高,所以成為登山愛好者攀登初級雪山的入門級絕好場所。<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br></span></font></p><p style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;"><font color="#000000"><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"> 確定出行后我開始準(zhǔn)備行裝。</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;"><font face="Calibri">4</font></span><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">月</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;"><font face="Calibri">29</font></span><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">日接到阿松電話,我跟隊(duì)友高原的車在</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;"><font face="Calibri">5</font></span><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">月</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;"><font face="Calibri">1</font></span><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">日</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;"><font face="Calibri">6</font></span><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">點(diǎn)鐘從西彭出發(fā),要提前到</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;"><font face="Calibri">4</font></span><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">月</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;"><font face="Calibri">30</font></span><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">日晚到西彭住宿。本來我還以為</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;"><font face="Calibri">30</font></span><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">晚還有收拾包的時(shí)間,結(jié)果必須提前到</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;"><font face="Calibri">29</font></span><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">日收拾完畢。</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;"><font face="Calibri">29</font></span><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">日抓緊收拾,到晚上</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;"><font face="Calibri">12</font></span><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">點(diǎn)才收拾完畢。</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;"><font face="Calibri">30</font></span><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">日背包到單位上班。下班后坐輕軌到毛線溝轉(zhuǎn)到西彭的專線公交,下班時(shí)間,車輛擁堵,原本</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;"><font face="Calibri">2</font></span><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">個(gè)半小時(shí)車程開了接近</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;"><font face="Calibri">4</font></span><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">小時(shí),晚上接近</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;"><font face="Calibri">9</font></span><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">點(diǎn)才到西彭。找旅店住下等明天出發(fā)。</span></font></p><font color="#000000" face="宋體" size="3"> </font><p style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;"><font color="#000000"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;"><font face="Calibri">5</font></span><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">月</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;"><font face="Calibri">1</font></span><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">日</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;"><font face="Calibri">6</font></span><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">點(diǎn),順利找到隊(duì)友高原的車,和沙丘、灰姑娘、蒲公英一行五人出發(fā)。其它隊(duì)友也各自開車出發(fā)。車行一路不時(shí)緩堵,出行車輛太多。中午在汶川下道,和后兩車隊(duì)友會合一起吃了中飯,繼續(xù)趕路。</span></font></p><p style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;"><br></p><font color="#000000" face="宋體" size="3"> </font> <font color="#000000" face="宋體" size="3"> </font><p style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;"><font color="#000000"><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">接近晚上</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;"><font face="Calibri">7</font></span><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">點(diǎn)才到達(dá)日隆鎮(zhèn),現(xiàn)在改名為四姑娘山鎮(zhèn)。找到阿松提前訂的旅店,等待后車到達(dá)一起吃飯,回房間睡覺。</span></font></p><font color="#000000" face="宋體" size="3"> </font> <font color="#000000" face="宋體" size="3"> </font><p style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;"><font color="#000000"><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">第二天,按阿松計(jì)劃休整一天,但是要在下午</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;"><font face="Calibri">3</font></span><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">點(diǎn)回旅店辦理登山手續(xù)。有人想去雙橋溝游玩,又擔(dān)心時(shí)間不夠。結(jié)果大家都開車到附近的巴朗山口轉(zhuǎn)了一下。我和同房間的阿華及蒲公英在山口旁邊的坡地上爬了</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;"><font face="Calibri">2</font></span><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">個(gè)小時(shí)山,到海拔</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;"><font face="Calibri">4575</font></span><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">米,其間阿華發(fā)現(xiàn)自己登山靴底意外脫膠了。</span></font></p><font color="#000000" face="宋體" size="3"> </font> <font color="#000000" face="宋體" size="3"> </font><p style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;"><font color="#000000"><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">下午</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;"><font face="Calibri">3</font></span><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">點(diǎn),回旅店和當(dāng)?shù)叵驅(qū)б娒?,辦理登山手續(xù),交登山門票費(fèi),簽安全自負(fù)責(zé)任書,掃碼登記?;胤块g休息,晚餐。晚上一行人在四姑娘山鎮(zhèn)逛街,五一期間鎮(zhèn)上游人如織,堵塞道路。阿華在商店買到膠水,回房間自己將脫膠的鞋底粘上。晚上在房間,為了節(jié)省馱包費(fèi)用,我和阿華整理了各自的大包,將兩個(gè)大包合成一個(gè)大包,明天交馬隊(duì)馱運(yùn)。</span></font></p><font color="#000000" face="宋體" size="3"> </font> <font color="#000000" face="宋體" size="3"> </font><p style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;"><font color="#000000"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;"><font face="Calibri">5</font></span><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">月</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;"><font face="Calibri">3</font></span><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">日,</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;"><font face="Calibri">7</font></span><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">點(diǎn)半,第一批人馬集中出發(fā)。向?qū)в民R隊(duì)馱每個(gè)人的大包,個(gè)人背自己的小包徒步。</span></font></p><font color="#000000" face="宋體" size="3"> </font> <font color="#000000" face="宋體" size="3"> </font><p style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;"><font color="#000000"><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">從鎮(zhèn)上走了接近一個(gè)小時(shí),</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;"><font face="Calibri">8</font></span><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">點(diǎn)</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;"><font face="Calibri">25</font></span><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">分到達(dá)四姑娘山海子溝入口。驗(yàn)票進(jìn)入。登山的門票和普通游覽票完全不一樣,價(jià)格貴,</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;"><font face="Calibri">150</font></span><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">元一張,上面有登山人的姓名、身份信息和向?qū)У纳矸荨?lt;/span></font></p><font color="#000000" face="宋體" size="3"> </font> <font color="#000000" face="宋體" size="3"> </font><p style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;"><font color="#000000"><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">進(jìn)門長長一段棧道,和我</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;"><font face="Calibri">2010</font></span><span style="font-family: 宋體; font-size: 14pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">年登大峰時(shí)候大不一樣了,當(dāng)時(shí)也是從海子溝進(jìn)入,當(dāng)時(shí)還沒有木質(zhì)棧道,全部是土路。</span></font></p><font color="#000000" face="宋體" size="3"> </font> 一路緩坡上行,經(jīng)過齋戒坪、鍋莊坪、朝山坪、石板熱、大坪、小坪于中午11點(diǎn)25分到達(dá)打尖包,共計(jì)走了7130米,從海拔3300米上升到3750米。 時(shí)值五月,路上高山杜鵑大多含苞欲放,少數(shù)剛剛綻開花蕾。上次來的時(shí)候是六月,一路杜鵑怒放,草地上不知名的野花也次第盛開,還是六月才是賞花的季節(jié)。上次來的時(shí)候全程沒有木質(zhì)棧道,現(xiàn)在木質(zhì)棧道已經(jīng)修到鍋莊坪了。路上去上了一次廁所,居然是星級廁所的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)了,厲害。 到了打尖包,有一個(gè)保護(hù)站,可以提供食品和熱水。停下休息,吃自己帶的路餐:列巴面包和巧克力。 休息后繼續(xù)上路,向上走是大峰、二峰保護(hù)站,向右走是海子溝的海子。我們繼續(xù)向上走,走了3250米,經(jīng)過雞卡坪,于13點(diǎn)15分到達(dá)大峰二峰保護(hù)站岔路口,岔路口4200米,拍照留念。 岔路口向上走就是大峰營地,向右走就二峰營地。向右出發(fā),走了2400米,下午15點(diǎn)30分到了二峰保護(hù)站。保護(hù)站海拔4300米。路上從上方經(jīng)過老牛園子露營點(diǎn)和一個(gè)海子,可以從上方遠(yuǎn)眺,其間還下了一會兒紛飛的小雪。 2010年到大峰保護(hù)站營地時(shí)還沒有任何建筑物,住的是自己帶的帳篷。今非昔比,二峰保護(hù)站營地已經(jīng)有了固定的大型帳篷和石頭房子,可以不用自己帶帳篷,直接住房子了,甚至還用專用的餐廳帳篷了。阿松在出發(fā)前已經(jīng)提前訂好石頭房子,一間房子睡9-10人,大通鋪,100元錢一個(gè)人。馱包的馬隊(duì)早就先于我們到達(dá),我們的大包已卸下放在房子旁邊了。于是我和阿華取包,拿出鋁膜地席和睡袋鋪床,占好各自鋪位。17點(diǎn)到餐廳帳篷晚餐,有米飯,炒肉片和阿松帶上來豆腐午餐肉白菜粉條煮的湯。 吃完晚飯,無事可做,預(yù)計(jì)明天3點(diǎn)出發(fā)開始攀登二峰,必須早點(diǎn)休息,所以下午6點(diǎn)多鐘就早早洗漱上床躺在睡袋里面。我鋪位左邊是同行隊(duì)友晨曦,右邊是隊(duì)友泡泡。我睡覺的房子一共睡了九個(gè)人,我們一個(gè)隊(duì)的隊(duì)友七人,房主又安排了兩個(gè)其它隊(duì)的人。房子里面倒是不冷,我將睡袋打開搭在身上,沒有裹在身上。營地海拔高,缺氧,上床也只是躺著,睡不著,2010年在大峰營地也是這樣。上床后感覺有點(diǎn)頭疼,十多年驢行還是第二次,擔(dān)心明天狀態(tài)不好,更是輾轉(zhuǎn)反側(cè)睡不著,聽旁邊隊(duì)友小聲說話,也不能入睡。只有一個(gè)其它隊(duì)的隊(duì)友發(fā)出呼嚕聲音,佩服他真能適應(yīng)各種環(huán)境。其間隔壁房間的隊(duì)友虹彩在說蒲公英發(fā)燒了,去找阿松要藥什么的,聽了一會兒,也無力幫助,沒有起來。我還是輾轉(zhuǎn)反側(cè)睡不著,頭疼依舊,問了旁邊的晨曦,她居然有兩包頭疼粉,要了一包吃了,過一陣,頭居然不疼了。凌晨2點(diǎn)鐘,一夜沒有睡著,有人起床,我也起來,穿衣,感覺頭不疼了,心里放松多了,找同房間隊(duì)友山綠久又要了一包頭疼粉,吃了,作為預(yù)防。2點(diǎn)半,在餐廳帳篷早餐,稀飯和阿松買的大餅。然后去看了一下蒲公英,她的狀態(tài)比昨晚好些了,但是為了防止意外,她還是決定留在營地,不去攀登二峰。除她以外,還有幾名隊(duì)友感覺身體狀況欠佳也決定留在營地。 剩下十余人整隊(duì)準(zhǔn)備出發(fā),天上飄著小雪,藏族向?qū)г儐柊⑺墒欠袢园丛?jì)劃登山?阿松決定繼續(xù)登山。凌晨3點(diǎn),準(zhǔn)備出發(fā),一路冰雪路,我下身穿了一條薄的羊毛保暖褲和一條快干褲,上身穿了一件羊毛保暖T恤,一件薄抓絨T恤、一件厚抓絨衣和外層的沖鋒衣,在登山靴外面套好雪套,上好冰爪,帶上兩根登山杖,開始走路。 天未亮,使用各自頭燈照路。一路走來,碰到的隊(duì)伍越來越多,居然未開發(fā)的雪山都吸引人如此多的人登山,也是我以前沒有碰到過的。前面一段緩坡,慢慢爬升,向?qū)Ш桶⑺烧俸絷?duì)友盡量走到一起。路人人員眾多,完全不必記路,只需要跟著走就可以了。一路跟著前面人走,大約6點(diǎn)鐘,走到一處名為絕望坡的地方,山勢變得陡峭,海拔升高很快,路也變得只容一人通過,前面的人喘著粗氣攀登,后面的人踩著前面的腳印前進(jìn)。山勢陡峭,海拔上升快,前面的人漸漸爬不動了,后面的人也無力超過,看不見頭尾的人群堵成一條頭燈的長龍。向?qū)Р粫r(shí)召呼走不動的人靠邊讓路,前隊(duì)后隊(duì)各隊(duì)人員速度不一,相互混雜,我和隊(duì)友也漸漸失散。 努力前行,天漸漸亮了,依舊小雪,天色灰暗。7點(diǎn)鐘,我到達(dá)一處小平臺,向?qū)дf此處距離峰頂還有兩百米了,在小平臺拍照休息,碰到隊(duì)友泡泡和神仙等人。繼續(xù)前行,要經(jīng)過一段鯉魚背狀的山脊,山脊兩邊是高聳的懸崖。當(dāng)?shù)厝嗽谏郊股洗蛄吮Wo(hù)鋼索,可以抓住鋼索前行。前行約一百米,接近峰頂,堵人愈加利害,上行的人和下行的人交織一起,進(jìn)退困難,不時(shí)有人滑倒。如果滑到山脊下面的懸崖那可就不用再起來了。仰望峰頂,霧氣彌漫,天氣灰暗,就是上到峰頂也看不見什么風(fēng)景,眼見堵人堵得厲害,我擔(dān)心等待時(shí)間太長,向?qū)б苍谡俸粑覀兿鲁?。不管你登與不登,山一直總會在那里,because it is here,下撤也是一種明智的選擇。我選擇下撤,神仙、泡泡、灰姑娘等人繼續(xù)向上,并登頂成功。 8點(diǎn)鐘,我開始下撤,從小包里面取出護(hù)膝,在膝關(guān)節(jié)處纏緊,保護(hù)好膝蓋。下山的冰雪路比上山更難行,側(cè)身下行,用腳上冰爪抓緊地面,用兩只登山杖杵實(shí)地面,再換腳踩下一個(gè)位置。下山路上看到多人滑倒,向?qū)г诨沟娜松砗蠛埃喊淹炔黹_,才能在雪地上制動。還好,滑倒的人都停住了。下撤到絕望坡,下行的人排成長隊(duì)緩慢通過。我剛通過,聽到上方驚叫,抬頭,上面雪坡一名女子滑倒,鏟倒她前面另一名女子,兩人一起滑倒,向我頭頂方向滑來。我一個(gè)人肯定擋不住兩個(gè)下滑的人,我朝旁邊跳開,一名向?qū)г谒齻兩砗蟾吆鞍淹确珠_,兩人分腿制動,終于停下,向?qū)ё返剿齻兩磉叄龅剿齻?,兩人才能起身。登山的人幾乎全部配備了冰爪,不然真的可能發(fā)生意外危險(xiǎn)。過了絕望坡,路相對好走了,緩坡下行。依然是小雪,灰暗天色,無風(fēng)景可看,呆頭呆腦一直走,隊(duì)友也一個(gè)都沒有看到。上山時(shí)只是跟著走,沒有記路,只記得路邊幾座瑪尼堆,不過上下山人員眾多,地上有明顯足跡,跟著足跡走就好了。下山時(shí)間長了,一直不停的走,腳趾生痛,路上也無法處理,繼續(xù)走。中午11點(diǎn),終于看到營地的帳篷。