<p class="ql-block" style="text-align:center;"><b style="font-size:22px;">鳳凰城里尋鳳凰</b></p><p class="ql-block" style="text-align:right;">守田人詩(shī)</p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">我打峨眉的煙雨里來(lái)，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">懷揣一紙泛黃的詩(shī)行，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">向湘黔交界的山坳里，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">尋那浴火重生的鳳凰。</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">沱江的水是未干的墨，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">蘸著晨霧寫下第一縷霞光，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">吊腳樓的木柱挑著云，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">像苗家阿妹的銀飾，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">在風(fēng)里叮當(dāng)，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">搖響千年的月光。</span></p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block"><b style="font-size:22px;">一、城是凝固的歌，歌是流動(dòng)的城</b></p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">虹橋的石拱是彎月，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">馱著商隊(duì)的馬幫鈴聲，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">從明清的煙雨里走來(lái)，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">蹄印還沾著茶馬古道的泥香。</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">青石板被歲月磨得發(fā)亮，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">每道凹痕都藏著故事——</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">是翠翠在渡口等儺送的黃昏，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">是沈從文筆下“邊城”的呼吸，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">是苗家漢子背簍里的山貨，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">壓彎了腰，卻壓不彎</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">對(duì)日子的熱望。</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">我沿著沱江走，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">看水車吱呀的轉(zhuǎn)著年輪，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">看洗衣槌敲碎波心，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">濺起的水花里，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">有阿婆的銀發(fā)在飄，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">有少女的藍(lán)印花布在晾，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">有苗家后生吹的樹(shù)葉，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">把“阿哥阿妹”的調(diào)子，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">吹成滿河的漣漪。</span></p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block"><b style="font-size:22px;">二、苗家是活著的畫，畫里住著神</b></p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">轉(zhuǎn)過(guò)回龍閣的巷口，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">忽聞蘆笙悠然響起——</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">是“四月八”的苗歌會(huì)，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">銀項(xiàng)圈碰著銀手鐲，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">叮叮當(dāng)當(dāng)，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">把山都唱得搖晃。</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">阿姐的百褶裙旋成花，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">紅的是火，綠的是春，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">藍(lán)的是沱江的天，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">裙擺掃過(guò)青草地，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">驚起幾只彩蝶，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">落在她肩頭，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">像苗繡上停歇的蝶。</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">我擠進(jìn)人群，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">看老阿公的蘆笙吹得嗚嗚響，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">看小阿妹的銀飾跳得晃眼，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">看圍鼓隊(duì)敲著牛皮鼓，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">把“苗家鼓舞”的力道，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">砸進(jìn)每一寸土地。</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">有個(gè)穿靛藍(lán)布衫的阿媽，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">正教孫女繡“蝴蝶媽媽”，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">針線在布上飛，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">像苗家的歷史在生長(zhǎng)——</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">蝴蝶媽媽生了十二個(gè)蛋，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">孵出了山川、河流、牛羊，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">孵出了苗家人的魂，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">在血脈里滾燙。</span></p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block"><b style="font-size:22px;">三、鳳凰是涅槃的魂，魂里有山河</b></p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">登上南華山的瞭望臺(tái)，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">看鳳凰城躺在山水懷里，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">像一只斂翅的神鳥。</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">導(dǎo)游說(shuō)：“這城原名鎮(zhèn)竿，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">因形似鳳凰才改名?！?lt;/span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">可我知道，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">鳳凰不在地圖上，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">在苗家人的歌里，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">在蠟染的圖案里，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">在吊腳樓的榫卯里，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">在他們抬頭望天時(shí)，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">眼里閃爍的光里。</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">想起沈從文的墓碑上刻著：</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">“照我思索，能理解‘我’；</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">照我思索，可認(rèn)識(shí)‘人’?！?lt;/span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">這鳳凰城啊，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">就是一面鏡子，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">照見(jiàn)了苗家人的堅(jiān)韌——</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">洪水沖不垮吊腳樓，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">戰(zhàn)火燒不盡歌謠，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">歲月改不了銀飾的亮，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">就像鳳凰涅槃，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">每一次重生都帶著火的印記。</span></p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block"><b style="font-size:22px;">四、我尋到了鳳凰，鳳凰在我心里</b></p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">傍晚坐在萬(wàn)名塔下，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">看夕陽(yáng)把沱江染成金河，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">聽(tīng)遠(yuǎn)處傳來(lái)“苗家敬酒歌”：</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">“阿哥喲，喝一碗攔門酒，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">情誼濃過(guò)沱江水……”</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">有個(gè)苗家姑娘遞來(lái)米酒，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">她的臉頰像熟透的桃子，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">眼睛里有星星在閃。</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">我接過(guò)碗，一口飲盡，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">辣得喉嚨發(fā)熱，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">心里卻開(kāi)出花來(lái)——</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">原來(lái)鳳凰不是傳說(shuō)，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">是苗家人用雙手壘起的城，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">是用歌聲喂大的魂，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">是每個(gè)清晨推開(kāi)窗時(shí)，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">看見(jiàn)的山清水秀，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">是每個(gè)夜晚入睡時(shí)，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">聽(tīng)見(jiàn)的蛙鳴蟲唱。</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">離開(kāi)那天，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">我把一片鳳凰花瓣夾進(jìn)書里，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">把苗家阿妹送的銀筆揣在懷里，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">把沱江的水裝進(jìn)瓶子里。</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">車窗外，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">鳳凰城的輪廓漸漸模糊，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">可我知道，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">我已把鳳凰裝在心里——</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">它是吊腳樓的煙火氣，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">是蘆笙的嗚咽聲，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">是苗繡上的蝴蝶紋，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">是所有關(guān)于“活著”的熱烈與深情。</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">有人說(shuō)，鳳凰是神話里的鳥，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">我說(shuō)，鳳凰是苗家人的日子，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">是他們用汗水澆灌的希望，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">是他們用歌聲編織的夢(mèng)想。</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">當(dāng)我老了，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">翻開(kāi)這本詩(shī)集，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">會(huì)看見(jiàn)鳳凰城里的一切——</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">沱江的水還在流，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">吊腳樓的燈還亮著，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">苗家人的歌還在唱，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">而我，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">永遠(yuǎn)是那個(gè)尋鳳凰的人，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">在歲月的長(zhǎng)河里，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">一次次出發(fā)，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">一次次歸來(lái)。</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">因?yàn)轼P凰不是終點(diǎn)，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">是永遠(yuǎn)的起點(diǎn)——</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">它告訴我：</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">只要心中有火，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">就能涅槃重生；</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">只要腳下有路，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">就能走向遠(yuǎn)方。</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">而這，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">就是鳳凰城里尋到的鳳凰，</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:22px;">是我一生的珍藏。</span></p><p class="ql-block" style="text-align:right;"><span style="font-size:18px;">2026-2-6</span></p><p class="ql-block" style="text-align:right;"><br></p> <p class="ql-block" style="text-align:center;"><span style="font-size:18px;">守田人攝影</span></p>