<p class="ql-block">大年初四，天氣睛朗，溫暖如春。</p> <p class="ql-block">一家三口驅(qū)車前往蘇州度假，計劃當(dāng)天游覽環(huán)秀山莊、藝圃和觀前街，初五游覽耦園和蘇州博物館，然后返回上海。</p> <p class="ql-block">9:00 出門，前三分之二的路程較為暢通，<span style="font-size:18px;">10:42進入?yún)侵袇^(qū)，</span>后三分之一的路程開始擁堵起來，</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p> <p class="ql-block">11:35 進入姑蘇區(qū)</p><p class="ql-block">蘇州市內(nèi)交通十分的擁堵，有些地段嚴(yán)重堵塞！</p> <p class="ql-block">兩個小時的路程，開車用了三個小時。12:05，抵達皮市街上的花筑風(fēng)雅宋民宿，12:30入住預(yù)定的民宿。</p> <p class="ql-block">13:00 我們在酒店休息片刻后，準(zhǔn)備打車去環(huán)秀山莊，多次加價，等了十幾分鐘，仍不見有司機接單，一家人商量著換乘公交車前往景點，又過了一段時間，終于有司機接單了！</p> <p class="ql-block">13:45，網(wǎng)約車抵達景德路，車費16元。</p><p class="ql-block">若路程不長，候車時間短，網(wǎng)約車應(yīng)是去熱門景點的最佳選擇吧？</p> <p class="ql-block">景德路的王鏊祠，王鰲祠原名王文恪公祠，是王鰲的兒子在嘉靖十一年上奏建造。這個祠堂歷經(jīng)清康熙、乾隆、嘉慶、同治、光緒年間的多次修繕。整個建筑坐北朝南，分為頭門、過廳、享堂三進，占地約一千多平萬米。</p><p class="ql-block">進入<span style="font-size:18px;">王鏊祠</span>的頭門時，并不明白與環(huán)秀山莊有什么關(guān)系。</p> <p class="ql-block">第二進為“過廳”，</p> <p class="ql-block">院中的臘梅與過廳建筑，相映成趣</p> <p class="ql-block">進入廳內(nèi)，“環(huán)宇絕秀”的圖片和文字展覽，進入眼簾…，王鏊-明代著名政治家和文學(xué)家，其生平事跡和文學(xué)成就也被簡要介紹。</p><p class="ql-block">景德史跡</p><p class="ql-block">Historical Records of Jingde Temple</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p> <p class="ql-block">王鏊祠演變脈絡(luò)</p><p class="ql-block">Historical Context of Wang Ao's Ancesral Hall</p><p class="ql-block">1）東晉王珣及其弟王珉在此建宅，后舍宅為寺。</p><p class="ql-block">2）東晉隆安年間（397-401），法云和尚建景德寺。</p><p class="ql-block">3）元末，景德寺毀于兵火。</p><p class="ql-block">4）明永樂二年（1404），重建景德寺。</p><p class="ql-block">5）嘉靖十一年（1532），原寺南側(cè)部分改建為武英殿大學(xué)士王鏊祠堂，沿襲至今。</p> <p class="ql-block">王鏊 Wang Ao</p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:18px;">王鏊（</span>1450-1524），字濟之，號守溪，授少傅兼太子太傅、武英殿大學(xué)士，“博學(xué)有識鑒，文章爾雅，議論明暢”。正德四年（1509），王鏊得旨許歸致仕。王鏊及其兄弟子輩先后營建小適園、真適園、怡老園等園林，具有家族造園的典型特征。王鏊《姑蘇志》記載“虎丘人善于盆中植奇花異、盤松古梅，置之幾案，清雅可愛，謂之盆景”</p><p class="ql-block">，成為歷史上為盆景定義的第一人，在中國盆景發(fā)展史上具有開創(chuàng)性貢獻。</p> <p class="ql-block">環(huán)秀山莊歷史演變</p><p class="ql-block">從明萬歷年間、清代、至當(dāng)今（2024年）</p><p class="ql-block">2024年，蘇州市人民政府決定，將王鏊祠劃歸蘇州市園林和綠化管理局管理，并與環(huán)秀山莊一體化開放。</p><p class="ql-block">至此，我們明白了從景德寺演變成王鏊祠，與環(huán)秀山莊的關(guān)系。</p> <p class="ql-block">第三進是“享堂”，</p> <p class="ql-block">堂內(nèi)是關(guān)于“環(huán)秀山莊的舊貌與保護行動”的展覽</p><p class="ql-block">環(huán)秀舊影</p> <p class="ql-block">保護實踐</p> <p class="ql-block">戈裕良 Ge Yuliang</p><p class="ql-block">一代造園疊山宗師</p> <p class="ql-block">師法自然，靈心妙手</p> <p class="ql-block">結(jié)束語</p> <p class="ql-block">百度百科稱，月洞門作為環(huán)秀山莊的標(biāo)志性景觀，被譽為園中的靈魂。其核心的太湖石假山，以其雄偉、奇特、險峻、幽深且秀美開闊的特質(zhì)，而聲名遠(yuǎn)揚，被譽為“別開生面、獨步江南”。</p> <p class="ql-block">穿過月洞門，才算進入了環(huán)秀山莊。不知何故，此處的月洞門只是一個現(xiàn)代的模型？看來，真正的月洞門應(yīng)該在環(huán)秀山莊內(nèi)了！</p> <p class="ql-block">環(huán)秀山莊簡介</p><p class="ql-block">環(huán)秀山莊，位于蘇州城中景德路，面積僅為3畝，1988年被列為全國重點文物保護單位，1997年底被聯(lián)合國教科文組織遺產(chǎn)委員會列為世界文化遺產(chǎn)。</p><p class="ql-block">環(huán)秀山莊占地不大，但其內(nèi)湖石假山為中國之最。據(jù)載，此山為清代疊山大師戈裕良所疊，雖由人作，有如天開，盡得造化之妙，堪稱假山之珍。環(huán)秀山莊亦因此而馳名。</p><p class="ql-block">此園本是五代吳越錢氏“金谷園”舊址。其后屢有興廢。清代乾?。?736-1795以來，蔣（楫）、畢（沅）、孫（士毅）三家先后居于此處，掘地為池，疊石山，造屋筑亭于其間。道光29年（1847）成為汪氏宗祠“耕耘山莊”的一部分，更名“環(huán)秀山莊”，又稱“頤園”。</p><p class="ql-block">園內(nèi)地盤不大，園外無景色可借，造景頗難。但因布局設(shè)計巧妙得宜，湖山、池水、樹木、建筑，得以融為一體；而假山一座、池水一灣，更是獨出心裁，另辟蹊徑，兩者配合，佳景層出不窮。望全園，山重水復(fù)，崢嶸雄廳；入其境，移步換景，變化萬端。</p><p class="ql-block">湖石假山占地僅半畝，而峭壁、峰巒、洞壑、潤谷、平臺、磴道等山中之物，應(yīng)有盡有，極富變化。池東主山，池北次山，氣勢連綿，渾成一片，恰似山脈貫通，突然斷為懸崖。而于磴道與澗流相會處，仰望是一線青天，俯瞰有幾曲清流；壯哉，美哉，恰如置身于萬山之中，全山處理細(xì)致，貼近自然，一石一縫，交代妥貼，可遠(yuǎn)觀亦可近賞，無怪有“別開生面、獨步江南”之譽。</p> <p class="ql-block">Brief Introductrion of the Mountain Vila with Embracing Beauty</p><p class="ql-block">The Mountain Villa with Embracing Beauty, located on Jingde Road, in the middle of Suzhou City, covers an area of only 3 mu (0.494 acre). It was listed as Important Heritage Site under State Protection in 1988, and was listed as a World Heritage by the UNESCO Heritage Committee at the end of 1997.</p><p class="ql-block">The Mountain Villa with Embracing Beauty occupies a small area, but its-inner Tainu stone reekery is the best in China.</p><p class="ql-block">According to records, this rockery is piled up by Ge Yuliang, the master of rockery design in the Oing Dynasty. Although the rockery is made by people, it is like natural landscape, and can be regarded as the treasure of rockery.</p><p class="ql-block">This garden was originally the former site of the "Jingu Garden" of the Wuyue Qian family of the Five Dynasties. After-wards, there were many ups and downs Since Qianlong (1736-1795) in the Qing Dynasty, three families, Jiang (Ji), Hua (Yuan), and Sun (Shiyi), lived here successively. They digged pool, piled up rockery and built hall and pavilion. In the 29th year of Daoguang (1847), it became a part of Wang's ancestral hall "Cultivation Villa" , and was renamed "The Mountain Villa with</p><p class="ql-block">Embracing Beauty'also known as "Emperor Garden".</p><p class="ql-block">The whole garden is not big, and there is no scenery outside for he garden to borrow, so it is quite difficult to create landscaping. However, due to the ingenious layout design, lakes, mountains, ponds, trees, and buildings can be integrated into one; and if there is a mountain and a pond and a bay, it is even more ingenious. Looking at the whole garden, the mountains and rivers are restored, and the hall is magnificent. When you enter in, you can see different scenery with moving forward.</p><p class="ql-block">The Taihu stone rockery covers only half an mu (0.0824 acre), and there are everything in the mountains, such as cliffs, peaks, caves, valleys, platforms, and roads, which are extremely varied. The main mountain in the east of pool, and the sub-mountain in the north of the pool, the momentum is continuous, and it is like a mountain range that suddenly breaks into a cliff. And where the settle way meets the stream, looking up is a thin strip of sky, overlooking is a few clear streams. It is magnificent and beautiful, just like being in the middle of ten thousand mountains. The whole mountain is carefully handled, close to nature, and every stone has a seam. It can be viewed from a distance or up close, no wonder it has the reputation of</p><p class="ql-block">"top in the region of southern Yangtze River".</p> <p class="ql-block">庭院中央，一座雄偉的湖石假山矗立在花崗巖石盆之中，顯得分外醒目。這座假山，仿佛在向游客們訴說著園中的主題—假山之美</p> <p class="ql-block">門廳（售票處）</p> <p class="ql-block">邊廊</p> <p class="ql-block">邊廊</p> <p class="ql-block">環(huán)秀山莊整體布局以假山為主，水池為輔，山水相依。前為廳堂、庭院，后為池水、假山。數(shù)十年來曾幾度維修，園中現(xiàn)存有補秋山房、有谷堂、問泉亭、房山亭等建筑。</p> <p class="ql-block">有穀堂的庭院內(nèi)，一座精美的太湖石花臺環(huán)繞著兩棵古老的樹木。其中一棵是大葉玉蘭樹，另一棵則是細(xì)葉樸樹，它們的胸徑都接近40公分，見證了百余年的歲月滄桑。</p> <p class="ql-block">每當(dāng)春天來臨，碧綠的樹木仿佛籠蓋了整個庭院，而萬縷紅霞則映襯著碧空如洗的天際，構(gòu)成了一幅絕美的畫卷。</p> <p class="ql-block">有榖堂（有谷堂）</p> <p class="ql-block">有谷堂，是環(huán)秀山莊主廳，面闊三間，進深五步架，硬山頂，南側(cè)為單步廊，整體規(guī)制莊重。堂內(nèi)匾額為徐運北所題，額下陳設(shè)新增清式紅木家具，</p> <p class="ql-block">西設(shè)“秀挹”側(cè)門（不開放），其上掛門聯(lián)一副；</p> <p class="ql-block">東為“環(huán)清”側(cè)門門洞</p> <p class="ql-block">環(huán)秀山莊（四面廳）</p> <p class="ql-block">環(huán)秀山莊四面廳，位于有谷堂正北面，卷棚歇山頂，是山莊內(nèi)單體建筑最大的一座。四面環(huán)廊（茶壺檔軒廊），面闊三間，進深五步架，堂內(nèi)懸扁一塊，為紅學(xué)大師俞平伯所書“環(huán)秀山莊”。</p> <p class="ql-block">堂內(nèi)設(shè)一套紅木家具，古樸淡雅，四面落地長窗，開敞通透，雕飾簡約。</p> <p class="ql-block">讓我們通過視頻來欣賞一下</p> <p class="ql-block">世界遺產(chǎn)-蘇州古典園林</p> <p class="ql-block">涵云閣和邊樓</p> <p class="ql-block">平臺假山景觀</p> <p class="ql-block">環(huán)秀山莊內(nèi)戈裕良所疊假山，堪稱一絕，主峰突兀于東南，次峰拱揖于西北，池水繚繞于兩山之間，其湖石大部分有渦洞，少數(shù)有皺紋。主峰高7.2米，澗谷長12米，山徑長60余米。戈氏疊山運用“大斧劈法”，簡練遒勁，結(jié)構(gòu)嚴(yán)謹(jǐn)，錯落有致，渾若天成，有“獨步江南”之譽。</p> <p class="ql-block">（未完待續(xù)）</p>